Would a rose by any other
name smell as sweet? Well, whatever Shakespeare
may have believed, roses have many aromas,
depending on variety, where they grow, climate,
time of year, even time of day. Whilst the
typical
English Tea Rose is full bodied and full
of quintessential Englishness in its aroma (graceful, elegant, sweet and gentle), African
roses often carry a richer, heavier, velvety
fragrance, whilst Bulgarian roses, most often
used in perfumery, can be warm, spicy, slightly
medicinal and honey sweet. As Rose oil extracts
can contain 300+ aromatic compounds, it's not
surprising there is such variety in smell.
Chemically,
the compounds that give a rose its smell are
known as turpenes, ketones, esters,
benzenes and other aromatic hydrocarbons.
Turpenes are fragrant alcohols found in many
plants; rose oil has characteristic turpenes
including geraniol (typically rose), citronellol
(citronella), farnesol (floral), nerol (sweet)
and linalool
(spicy). Ketones are the volatile
chemicals that we sense most readily. The level
of these is key to giving rose aroma its potency
- the higher the level of ketones the more
strongly rosy a rose will smell.
To produce 1oz of pure rose absolut
requires around 50,000 buds, best
picked in the morning as they are freshly
opening. The process of extracting the fragrance
from a rose is much the same as any other flower
extract; either steam distillation, cold solvent
extraction or exceptionally liquid CO2
distillation. For the finest fragrances CO2 is
the preferred method but adds to the cost.
Roses fragrances are said to
bring feelings of calmness, well-being and
romance. It is certainly true that roses and
romance are intertwined throughout history and
indeed our modern society. Can
a fragrance inspire love? The correlation, in
the case of roses, is very strong, roses at
weddings, rose petal carpets, valentines day
roses, single red roses - roses seem to be
synonymous with love.
Baby powder has traditionally
been rose scented, which probably helps the
smell of rose trigger, in many people, that
feeling of motherly comfort, warmth, softness.
However many roses have very
little scent at all - as growers have cultivated
and hybridised flowers for their colour or
appearance or lack of thorns or their
straightened stems or cut shelf-life, then the fragrance has been
unfortunately sidelined.
Shakespeare, by the way, was
believed to be making a joke at the expense of
the Rose Theatre, which was next to an alley way
used as a public convenience - definitely not
sweet!